The recent influx of new hotel restaurants (Momofuku, Café Boulud, Toca), has raised the standards of lobby-level dining in Toronto. Compared to these luxe new establishments, Victor’s moody, modern room, scattered with low-slung couches and coffee tables, feels more like a hotel lounge than a restaurant. Chef David Chrystian's tasting menu—divided into seven sections, each inspired by a Toronto neighbourhood—demonstrates originality, though the execution can be sloppy. His flavours are often spot-on, as in an appetizer of golden seared scallops with pebbles of savoury gingerbread and cinnamon-laced carrots. Chili rellenos, a fried poblano pepper stuffed with tofu, rice, corn, black beans and tomatoes, would be superb if the pepper and the robustly cuminy mashed beans alongside weren’t served cold. A trio of desserts is uneven: the creamy, dense pumpkin tart captures beautiful fall flavours and an apple pavé features an airy apple-vanilla mousse, but the chocolate-ginger cake is a dry, crumbled mess. The international wine list is expansive and moderately priced. Servers are friendly, but lack knowledge and efficiency.
Neighbourhood: King West
Toronto Life does not necessarily agree with the comments posted here. Editors will not correct spelling or grammar. Toronto Life reserves the right to edit or delete comments entirely. Read our full commenting policy.