The room has the hushed, almost depressing vibe found in most hotel restaurants, but despite the ambience, it’s still a terrific place to eat. The east-meets-west cooking falls more into the latter category. A signature dish of lobster bolognese lives up to the hype: spaghettini and perfectly poached lobster are bathed in a gaspingly good emulsion of briny lobster stock, sweet butter and funky truffles; a garnish of gold leaf pushes the dish over the edge of decadence. A spin on tournedos Rossini finds a fat fist of rare beef tenderloin under a generous slab of lovingly seared foie gras; a verdant raft of barely steamed asparagus provides something green and crunchy to balance the fat. From a quartet of tiny crème brûlée (vanilla, mocha, ginger and chocolate), only chocolate fails to impress because of its lack of intensity. Mains $28–$35.
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