Chef Matty Matheson’s macho resto-bar was one of the early arrivals on Parkdale’s restaurant row, and it remains one of the best. Shelves full of junk-shop jetsam allude to the place’s past as a hardware store, but the room is clean, white and packed every night with hip diners. Matheson favours fancified comfort food (a burger with seven ounces of ground-daily brisket) and dressed-down fine dining (a scallop crudo spiked with sharp yuzu and green serrano peppers). For dessert, a monstrous doughnut is slathered in a sticky tar of Oreos and strawberry preserves.
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