Chef Dustin Gallagher’s departure marked the end of an era for this locally loved bistro. His successor, Kevin Castonguay, lasted only months, leaving some concern among regulars about the direction of the kitchen. They should rest easy. New executive chef Colin Moise is charting a bright future for Grace, combining assured cooking with surprising ingredients and techniques. Spiced cream and squash are puréed into fluffy perfection, poured over a disc of brûléed foie gras and accented with crunchy pumpkin seed shards. Strong flavours—soft-boiled eggs, blue potatoes, frisée, roasted olives, horseradish-balsamic vinaigrette, dill and blue cheese—battle for dominance in a rich salad platter, yet everything remains remarkably balanced. Moise brings a bit of unexpected fun to duck two ways (roasted breast and confit leg), adding cooked apple slices and squash on a plate-spanning spread of intensely sweet wheatberry risotto. Desserts—a too-tart lemon curd and a dust-dry brownie—are the meal’s only missteps.
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