Geoff Hopgood’s poshified Halifax junk food is as excellent as ever, but the dishes that delight us the most tend to pare back his signature kitsch. Oyster- and truffle-injected mayo amps up the umami of the mustardy beef-heart tartare. A whole Nova Scotia lobster, served with hazelnut-tinged butter and piled with sautéed pea shoots, has luscious spring. If you want to go out for a luxe lobster dinner without getting dressed up, this is the city’s best option by far. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
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