Roncesvalles’ prototypical neighbourhood bistro has a white marble bar, a shelf of Alice Waters cookbooks and a menu of not-quite-French, not-quite-Italian dishes. The owners, Beth Davyduke and Tom Earl, are from B.C., and they greet diners with a kind of chatty, West Coasty familiarity (they ask your first name and use it). Chef Geoff Kitt makes everything in-house, and much of it works out nicely. Well-balanced ravioli is zinged with lemon zest and smothered in a rich mushroom-cream sauce. The house-ground burger is rubbery and under-salted, and Arctic char, while nicely seared, comes on stodgy couscous that tastes like bouillon cubes. The fluffy banana bread pudding in coconut crème anglaise, however, leaves adults forking off over the last bite.
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