The Riverdale date-night spot has transformed into a bona fide destination. A late-summer prix fixe menu made use of gorgeous heirloom tomatoes: as a vibrant bed for tender lime-spiked squid ceviche, and as a crudo on house-made spaghetti. Airily battered deep-fried artichoke hearts are delightful in an inventive, orange-spiked mayonnaise, while duck risotto is rich and creamy. The wine list offers a good selection of privately sourced glasses and bottles at reasonable price points, but a mouthful of crushed ice ruins a promising whiskey sour topped with house-preserved cherry. Moody grey walls and unobtrusive service make everything even nicer.
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