Table 17 is the rare restaurant that’s both a neighbourhood hangout and a culinary destination. The Queen East room is regularly packed with couples, friends and the occasional stroller-toting family. The decor is hasty—scuffed walls, wobby tables—but chef John Sinopoli’s cooking is so good that the surface details feel inconsequential. His polenta is silken, sweet and, on our visit, topped with bright peperonata and pork ragù. A creamy scoop of burrata anchors a salad of crisp greens, tangy salsa verde and vinegar-cured anchovies in a pickled onion dressing. For a main, Sinopoli sears a trio of enormous scallops to a caramel crisp and serves them with crunchy nuggets of guanciale and intensely sweet peas. The bar pours delicious cocktails, including several good bourbon-based options served in pewter cups, and the wine list is well-chosen and affordable.
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