David Neinstein’s Roncesvalles room resembles any number of west-end bistros: the walls are burnished brick, the bar is polished concrete, and the tables are full of well-behaved Roncey families. Behind the dining area, though, is a Southern Pride smoker, where Neinstein slow-cooks his meat over fruitwood. Sample the goods with the barbecue platter, piled foot-high with supple slices of peppercorn-pricked brisket; juicy, bronze-skinned smoked chicken; and chewy baby back ribs.
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