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RestaurantsThai

Thai House Cuisine

Reviewed by Toronto LifeLet’s hear it for restaurants that get better over time. Top-notch ingredients and a delicate hand in the kitchen were all it took here. The Queen East space is simple and comfortable, with subdued lighting, embroidered elephant panels and an educational menu. The kitchen follows Bangkok’s eaten path. Spring rolls deliver little grease and lots of crunch, the fungi exuding smoky, lingering, tobacco-like notes. The surprise is taro, a heavy-duty but light potato pancake, complemented by sweet-sour sauce. Only papaya salad disappoints—unripe papaya, dried shrimp and green beans thirst for more of their lime juice and chilies. A welcome gust of sweet basil galvanizes seafood fried rice, with generous shrimp, squid, scallops and unevenly cooked mussels. For dessert, fried bananas might jettison the icing sugar and focus more on hot-sweet syrup. The short but amiably priced wine list includes young, fruity wines that could work well with Thai flavours, although most diners need look no further than the local or imported beers. Brisk service. Mains $9–$16.

  • map marker #1
    2213 Queen St. E. (at Wineva Ave.)

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