Sometimes a buzzy neighbourhood spot is destined for greater things, and that’s our prediction for Sukhothai. Housed in a wee space at the junction of Dundas and Parliament, Nuit and Jeff Regular’s northern Thai restaurant is approaching its first birthday, and it’s bursting at the seams. A line of takeout fans are rung through at the cash, and the nine tables are packed, often with wistful travellers reconnecting with khao soy, a spicy yellow coconut curry soup floating egg noodles and chicken or beef, topped with crunchy noodles (fried to order) and zinged with finger-licking chili oil. Call ahead, and Nuit might prepare a vibrant tasting menu, including a whole steamed tilapia stuffed with fresh lemon grass and topped with lime and coriander. Don’t expect lickety-split service; the Regulars are kind and eager to chat, but not quite ready to cope with the onslaught of devotees. Unlicensed.