Restaurants GuideThai

Soontorn Bahn Thai star star good
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Reviewed by Toronto Life
Editorial Review

Exotic wood floors and deep banquettes appointed with silk bolsters set an appropriate standard for the authentic, well-executed food at this elegant, modern Thai dining room. Fried red snapper brings a beautifully butterflied and impeccably crisp fish, even under lip-smacking chili-laced sauce. Light-tasting crab fried rice is studded with big pieces of sweet Dungeness and snow crab, fluffy egg, carrots and scallion slivers. But garlic-marinated strips of barbecued Siamese beef bore the palate; an interesting side could lend some much-needed texture and acidity. House-made desserts include exceptional sticky squares of rice topped with creamy coconut and candy-sweet mango. Service disappoints: empty plates linger. Mains $12–$16.

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