Down a flight of stairs and through a massive wooden door, diners find an enchanting subterranean Thai shrine. In the lounge, gentle Thai music floats across the chicly lit room that’s centred on a spectacular bar constructed of a single piece of South African wood. On this night, said bar is empty, leaving the creative list of lemon grass– or ginger-infused martinis untouched. However, the dining room is filled with Oak­villians enjoying a safely exotic night. Friendly servers in traditional garb deliver dishes ranging from boring and bland to perfectly aromatic to overwhelmingly pungent. Golden baskets seem to have wandered off a catering menu: boring ground chicken in pastry cups. A whole red snapper—moist inside and crispy outside—is doused in sweet tamarind sauce with ginger and fried shallots. Its raw button mushrooms and mealy tomato slices don’t belong on the plate. Desserts are authentic—sliced bananas in hot coconut milk, for instance—but are an acquired taste. Mains $9–$20.