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RestaurantsThai

Salad King

  • 340 Yonge St. (at Gould St.) View on map »
  • 416-593-0333

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe return of the Salad King just over a year after the restaurant was forced to abandon its crumbling original premises has been an exciting event for lovers of cheap and cheerful Thai food. Ryerson students—always the prime constituency here—line up outside the new location at lunchtime now; the poppy, brightly colored interior, made up of a mix of stainless steel communal tables (as at the old place) and individual tables overlooking Yonge Street, has a happy, caffeinated energy that’s even louder and more enjoyable than the original joint ever was. The food is the same as ever: cheap, competently made (for the most part), relatively fast and reliably filling. And yes, you can still get your spicing on a scale from mild (none, essentially) to 20 (best you wear an adult diaper). While the deep-fried spring rolls don’t quite cut it—there’s not enough filling, too many layers of wrapper—the spicy squid with kaffir lime leaves, sweet basil, bamboo shoots and bell peppers is perfectly balanced: a bit of sweet, a bit of sour, some salty, earthy depth from fish sauce and plenty of chili spice. Tom yum soup is a bit too salty, and the shrimp, though not offensive, taste like they were in frozen storage for a bit too long.

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