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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 1100 Eglinton Ave. (at Bathurst) View on map »
  • 416-785-1727
Editorial Review

Fake flowers and a Muzak soundtrack keep boomers soothed in this Forest Hill family spot. Portions are generous, starting with a heaping plate of vegetarian appetizers: crispy taro strips that seem like the sweeter cousin of french fries, and puffy fried triangles of tofu, which, when bitten into, dissolve into air like a magic carnival treat. A fillet of sea bass is breaded lightly in rice flour, then covered in a gently piquant mix of diced mango, onion, chili and lime juice. It deftly balances the fish’s natural sweetness with the salsa’s spice. With frozen peas and bland prawns, pineapple fried rice is less exciting, though it wakes up a bit when mixed with oily sautéed eggplant, whose chili-garlic sauce starts with a caramelized warmth and builds to a scorching finale. Mains $8–$16.

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