Ultrasuede banquettes, slate walls and soft lighting give this old-school dining room an elegant 1950s feel. Well-heeled, youthful diners chat affably with the gracious and knowledgeable staff. The menu offers sophisticated steak house standards, including a few coveted and rather pricey cuts (a $92 rib-eye, for example). To start, classic caesar salad made tableside with egg yolk and Spanish anchovies is a piquant, salty gem, while oysters Rockefeller with plump Malpeques deliver succulent richness with notes of tarragon. Steaks are the raison d’être. Chef Ben Gundy dry-ages black Angus and wagyu in house. Well-seasoned pieces are seared stovetop in a cast iron pan, then finished at 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit under a Montague broiler. Idaho’s Snake River Farms provides a 12-ounce, 42-day-aged wagyu strip loin with complex flavours of iron and butter. A 28-ounce, 41‑day-aged black Angus Alberta rib-eye, served on the bone, is a luscious, crusty showstopper. Fun desserts include a banana split with silky vanilla pudding. Wines are on the pricey side, with respectable depth in French and Italian reds. Mains $33–$150.