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Restaurants › Steak

The Fifth Grill and Terrace

225 Richmond St. W. (at Duncan St.) • View on map »
416-979-3005
http://www.thefifthgrill.com/

The buzz that surrounded this high-end Entertainment District hangout through the last decade has softened considerably in recent years, and the kitchen, led in the past by such chef-luminaries as Marc Thuet, Didier Leroy and J.P. Challet, is somewhat less pedigreed these days. But the clubby rooftop steak house, reached via a very cool 105-year-old freight elevator, is still an excellent place for drinks and dinner, even if the evening will set you back some serious coin. The main dining room, with linen-covered tables, impeccably trained floor staff and a nightly jazz trio, is all class and not-too-showy glitz. Much of the traditional steak-house food is excellent: crisp, panko-crusted onion rings that are mellow and caramelized on the inside; great shoestring fries; excellent cauliflower soup; and meaty, properly seasoned crab cakes. The venison, grilled to rare in a nicely aromatic tea and sesame crust, is delicious. Desserts are also good, particularly a sticky toffee that plays the sticky just hard enough for effect without feeling sickly sweet. The only disappointment, oddly, is the steak. A 14-ounce, $52, 60-day dry aged rib-eye, for instance, is a slightly-too-stringy commodity beef with only a hint of the exquisite funkiness that age should bring. Considering how much they’re charging, the beef should be better. It’s not even served very hot. This seems strange considering that steak is the restaurant’s specialty. The wine list is excellent though, with great choices for every budget. The cocktails, though pricy, are also very good. The rooftop terrace is packed in summer. Mains $25–$92.

225 Richmond St. W. (at Duncan St.)

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