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Restaurants › Spanish

Embrujo Flamenco star½ [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe castanets’ rat-a-tat-tat and the breeze off the flamenco dancer’s twirling dress enliven the Iberian experience at this dark tapas restaurant. The menu focuses on such traditional Andalusian tapas as salmorejo, Cordoba’s thick gazpacho, served with good crusty bread for dipping. Nestled in smoked paprika aïoli, salt cod croquettes have a crusty exterior and oozing béchamel centre. A textbook tortilla española achieves the perfect balance of moist potato, sweet onion and creamy egg. The kitchen wobbles on a few dishes, however. The classic gambas al ajillo is permeated by the acrid taste of burnt garlic, and a Moorish chicken dish of thigh meat cooked with dried fruit, almonds and spices is overshadowed by a sugary sauce that would be more at home on ice cream. Bargain-priced cava stands out on the all-Spanish wine card. Small plates $6–$14.

  • map marker #1
    97 Danforth Ave. (at Broadview)
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