Foodies and A-listers compete for the small wooden tables in the plainly decorated room; the Ritz it ain’t, but deft, friendly service and a palpable sense of excitement at the quality of the food keep the place humming. Owner-chef Chris McDonald and his partner and co-chef Doug Penfold take Iberian tapas as their inspiration. Details delight: a shallot-cava mignonette for oysters, perhaps, or the texture of candied, pulled salmon (like soft silk threads) atop avocado and toast. Chilled spring pea soup is a thick purée centred with petals of scallop ceviche that add fresh acidity to the pure pea flavour. The pungency of house-cured anchovies is intensified by shavings of parmesan and slivered green celery. Marinated, broiled sablefish has the exquisite texture of egg custard and is paired with black rice finished in butter-sautéed escarole—an impeccably balanced trio. Fresh Iberico pork tenderloin and shoulder is amazingly tender, the meat’s sweetness brought out by tomatillo salsa, white root (celeriac, parsnip and turnip) purée and wilted radish tops. The wine list is rich with half-bottles, by-the-glass choices, sherries, Iberian, French (impeccably chosen) and American bottlings. Tapas $4–$18.