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RestaurantsSoutheast Asian

Restoran Malaysia

Reviewed by Toronto LifeFrom the handful of Malay dining options in the GTA, this perpetually packed Richmond Hill resto is the reigning king. On weekends, the wait for a table can push an hour, though the crowds milling in the holding pen don’t seem to mind. The place buzzes with the energy of well-sated regulars, and the kitchen and servers handle the anarchy with aplomb. To start, Penang rojak is a unique salad of tart green mango, juicy jicama, cucumber and crispy tofu in a sweet yet pungent dressing of palm sugar, tamarind and crushed peanuts. The menu makes forays into Indonesia with rendang chicken, a dry, fragrant curry of coconut, lemon grass and lime leaf that would be a knockout if the meat weren’t so overcooked. Plump sambal shrimp swim in a bright red sauce that deftly balances the sweetness of tomato with the heat of chili paste; it lives up to its three-chili warning. Warm, flaky and chewy roti doubles nicely as a starchy sauce-mopper. Teh tarik, a frothy mixture of black tea and condensed milk, is the beverage of choice in this booze-free establishment. (In fact, this corner of Richmond Hill is becoming something of a dry zone.) Mains $10–$25.

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