The decor is warm and inviting, with amber lighting, kitschy taxidermied fish and a central-hub galley kitchen. A handful of tables and a sliver of a patio are about all this two-person crew can handle. The resto’s traditional and nouveau Malaysian menu is long on apps and short on mains, with specials focusing on fresh fish. One day’s well-timed whole rosefish is double-fried and complemented by mango jam, sticky rice and superb okra. Boasting a punch of garlic, stir-fried pea shoots are tender and vibrant. Tempura tuna roll is deep-fried too long, yet somehow arrives tepid, the tuna chewy, the cashew and cranberry lost amid the tam­ar­ind, Thai basil and chili sauce. Laksa, a classic Malaysian meal in a bowl (a combination of shrimp, noodles, dumplings and veg), is slick with coconut milk and tastes of spicy heat. Fun Asian-twist martinis. Mains $14–$26.