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Restaurants › Seafood

Starfish starstar [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeOyster lovers not in the mood for the rustic charm of Rodney’s should head east to this slightly more chi-chi seafood haven on a strip of Adelaide that’s otherwise bereft of good restaurants. The oysters here are just as fresh and plump as Rodney’s and come with entertaining banter and shucking expertise at the bar. Items elsewhere on the menu are consistently good. Crab bisque, made from house-smoked blue crab, is a rich amber broth with just a touch of smoke adding depth. Pacific halibut is pretty as a picture alongside sweet-tasting baby beets and roasted carrots in a sunny corn broth—it’s like summer in a bowl. Less successful organic black cod teams up with white gazpacho, white beans and almonds for a plate that looks and tastes uniformly beige. In sweets, a slab of aromatic iced strawberry-rosewater terrine between crisp pistachio wafers is a wonderful juxtaposition of textures. Mains $18–$35.

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