This popular spot transplants the atmosphere of a maritime seafood shack to Queen West, a feeling reinforced by a menu of casual classics that focuses exclusively on the fruits of the sea. Oysters receive pride of place, with the best of the day listed on a chalkboard behind the bar and served fresh with a wide selection of condiments, such as freshly grated horseradish or a palate-tingling garlic, chili and ginger relish. Six baked varieties, including Rockefeller, offer a serious shellfish hit for those squeamish about raw molluscs. Piscine pleasures include roasted pickerel with potato hash and the balancing acidity of cherry tomatoes, or the silky richness of salt cod and potato fish cakes with lively chipotle mayo. The affordable wine list and draft beer pair smartly with the food. Unexceptional desserts include too-sweet vanilla crème brûlée made with extract rather than beans. Mains $15–$30.