Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
good
very good
excellent
extraordinary
perfect
In the upstairs restaurant, the feel is casual country club (taupes, light wood and oversized booths); in the downstairs oyster lounge, it’s more cozy conviviality (leather club chairs, flat-screen TVs, two fireplaces, a 40-foot hardwood-topped raw bar and stucco walls). Appropriately, the menu veers upscale while still reflecting its pub roots—generous quesadillas plump with jerk chicken, for instance. Spinach salad brings crisp leaves loaded with Ermite blue cheese, pickled red onions and toasted walnuts, and moistened by a balanced Pommery mustard vinaigrette. Onion soup is a thin but admirably smoky broth, speckled with parmesan and floating sweet vidalia onion. Mains include moist Arctic char with sesame-toasted rice, teriyaki veg and wasabi cream. To finish, sticky toffee pudding, plump with dates, avoids cloying sweetness thanks to a balancing hit of chocolate. Indifferent service. Mains $23–$49.
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