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RestaurantsSeafood

Mediterra star [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeA mural of a Greek village, a giant amphora—it’s as if the Danforth has migrated downtown, to the benefit of lunchtime suits and evening tourists. The large space is formal enough for the opera crowd, too, with a genial host and old-school servers. Seafood is the raison d’être. Grilled black sea bass is moist under its crisp skin. Charbroiled scallops shine against oily pilaf, spinach, red peppers and a subtle saffron-vanilla beurre. Other elements of the menu are less impressive. Thickening with roux diminishes the texture of a flavourful lobster bisque. Oversalting undermines the pleasure of a tender grilled octopus limb. For dessert, stick to the house specialty of vanilla ice cream with chewy dried figs and walnuts marinated in honey and Metaxa. Ho-hum international wines don’t merit the high markups. Mains $18–$35.

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