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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 314 Queen St. W. (at Spadina) View on map »
  • 416-263-0330
Editorial Review

Though this dining room–nightclub combo is quiet on most weeknights, Thursday’s extended happy hour fills the bar with thirsty suits, thumping music and a somewhat lascivious vibe. However, chef Chris Zielinski’s gorgeous French-Asian cuisine manages to fend off the clubby distractions. A decadent spin on moo shu wraps soft crêpes around julienne veg, pulled duck confit and shaved foie gras; colourful sauces delivering blasts of sweet, sour and spicy dot the plate. Generously portioned mains often feature variations on one star ingredient. For example, a haute bento box brings rare yellowfin tuna topped with salted plum relish in one section and slivers of the raw fish mixed with green papaya in a citrusy poke salad in another; the complement of buttery, miso-napped asparagus nearly steals the spotlight. For dessert, Story of Apples presents three autumnal treats: a delicate tart, date-crusted bread pudding and a cinnamon beignet. The wine list caters to big spenders. Servers struggle with a full house. Mains $21–$48.

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