Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
good
very good
excellent
extraordinary
perfect
Though this dining room–nightclub combo is quiet on most weeknights, Thursday’s extended happy hour fills the bar with thirsty suits, thumping music and a somewhat lascivious vibe. However, chef Chris Zielinski’s gorgeous French-Asian cuisine manages to fend off the clubby distractions. A decadent spin on moo shu wraps soft crêpes around julienne veg, pulled duck confit and shaved foie gras; colourful sauces delivering blasts of sweet, sour and spicy dot the plate. Generously portioned mains often feature variations on one star ingredient. For example, a haute bento box brings rare yellowfin tuna topped with salted plum relish in one section and slivers of the raw fish mixed with green papaya in a citrusy poke salad in another; the complement of buttery, miso-napped asparagus nearly steals the spotlight. For dessert, Story of Apples presents three autumnal treats: a delicate tart, date-crusted bread pudding and a cinnamon beignet. The wine list caters to big spenders. Servers struggle with a full house. Mains $21–$48.
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