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RestaurantsResto-Lounge

Ultra starstar½ [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeDazzlingly redecorated, the glamorous bar is separated from the dining room by a long communal table that doubles as a catwalk during fashion shows. The raised banquette tables along the east wall are the best place from which to watch the restaurant morph into a dance club late on weekend nights. The new menu of Asian-influenced sharing plates has raised the standard of food here. Shiitake tempura and radish sprouts add two kinds of crunch to a salad roll wrapped in thinly sliced kobe beef, tweaked by a prickle of chili heat and a whisper of truffle oil. Some sauces and dressings can be overwhelming: An eight-ounce tenderloin is impeccable under a miso-mushroom fricassee, but the sticky hoisin on the plate is one salty sauce too many. Expert servers find matches from a reasonably priced global wine list. Mains $8–$34.

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