Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
good
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excellent
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perfect
As a pianist gently tickles out jazz standards, chic diners listen attentively, chat between tables and offer warm applause. Chef Fawzi Kotb’s food, for the most part, also deserves a hand. An amuse of goat cheese and fresh strawberry drizzled with 12-year-old balsamic brings a smile. Likewise, rich lentil curry soup, with crispy leek frites, delights with silky spice in a hollowed acorn squash. Organic baby spinach, in tart pomegranate and raspberry vinaigrette, perfectly offsets warm, creamy Woolwich goat cheese, baked inside a crispy poppy seed, sesame and panko crust. A New Zealand lamb shank offers rich thyme-infused jus, but needs another hour’s braising. Boar tenderloin, encrusted in panko and pistachio and glazed with honey mustard, is gorgeously tender in a lush sauce of cranberries with accompanying caramelized blue plums. Vegetables disappoint: pedestrian broccoli, beans and carrots. Desserts lean toward the theatrically flambéed, while a small wine list favours pricey bottles. Gracious servers. Mains $25–$48.
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