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Opal Jazz Lounge starstar star good
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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 472 Queen St. W. (at Augusta Ave.) View on map »
  • 416-646-6725
Editorial Review

As a pianist gently tickles out jazz standards, chic diners listen attentively, chat between tables and offer warm applause. Chef Fawzi Kotb’s food, for the most part, also deserves a hand. An amuse of goat cheese and fresh strawberry drizzled with 12-year-old balsamic brings a smile. Likewise, rich lentil curry soup, with crispy leek frites, delights with silky spice in a hollowed acorn squash. Organic baby spinach, in tart pomegranate and raspberry vinaigrette, perfectly offsets warm, creamy Woolwich goat cheese, baked inside a crispy poppy seed, sesame and panko crust. A New Zealand lamb shank offers rich thyme-infused jus, but needs another hour’s braising. Boar tenderloin, encrusted in panko and pistachio and glazed with honey mustard, is gorgeously tender in a lush sauce of cranberries with accompanying caramelized blue plums. Vege­tables disappoint: pedestrian broccoli, beans and carrots. Desserts lean toward the theatrically flambéed, while a small wine list favours pricey bottles. Gracious servers. Mains $25–$48.

  • Closed Sunday and Monday
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