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Maro star [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThis sexy converted warehouse on the edge of Parkdale mixes pan-Asian decor (bamboo-print screens and orchids) with French parlour chic (shimmering brocade wallpaper). It’s the perfect backdrop for young sophisticates sprawling on low sofas, with fruity cocktails in hand. On LCD screens above the bar, beach scenes of lapping waves lend the feeling of dining on a remote Thai island. Unfortunately, chef Danny McCallum’s concise menu feels more Mother Parker’s than Phuket Beach. Such pedestrian offerings as seafood linguine and New York cheesecake are offset by more creative dishes, like a tangy lime-cilantro roast chicken with crisp fried plantains and lemon grass basmati rice bundled in a banana leaf. A Chicago-style charred strip loin melts in the mouth, but it arrives too tepid to even soften its herb butter. The accompanying button mushrooms are a tad too garlicky. However, things finish on a high note with silky, orange-kissed crème brûlée in a cereal bowl–size serving. The decent wine list offers something for every budget. Mains $22–$39.

  • map marker #1
    135 Liberty St. (at Fraser Ave.)
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