Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
good
very good
excellent
extraordinary
perfect
Three glowing white onyx tables, a celebration table for 10 and a chef’s table for five look even more dramatic against the black decor of this hip den for condo dwellers. The music is a syllabus of rock that will thrill boomers; the decently priced wine list is equally eclectic, arranged alphabetically by grape (oddly enough). It suits the cosmopolitan vibe of chef Craig Alley’s food. There are Latin hints in a flavourful, moist, ancho-scented duck confit spooned with napa slaw into miniature taco shells. Pierogies come well-stuffed with smoked cheddar and soft roasted garlic with sour cream foam. Japanese-style rolls of rare beef tenderloin, wrapped around enoki, arugula and a garlic crouton, are westernized with shaved parmesan and truffled garlic cream. Mains include gorgeous southern-fried quail in perfect, greaseless batter, paired with a Cajun treatment of the same critter and served with dirty rice and collard greens. Awesome sorbets include sweet plum-vanilla or blueberry–lemon grass. Service is friendly. Mains $27–$33.
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