Lured by colourful saketinis and comely waiters, the ladies who lunch still flock to this hip King West spot. A chain mail screen separates the bar and dining room without interrupting the flow of people-watching. Upmarket Japanese tapas range from simple to exotic. Vegetable tempura—asparagus, okra and king oyster mushrooms—spills out of a bamboo cone, creating a light and crisp cornucopia. Adorned with a cilantro leaf and a sliver of fresh chili, juicy lobster dumplings are like dim sum from the gods. Contrasting cuts of raw tuna—fatty belly and lean loin—are wrapped around herbaceous shiso, soft glass noodles and crunchy lotus chips; a gentle brushing of spicy miso sauce respects the luxurious fish. The globe-trotting wine list and selection of premium sakes deserve equal attention. Skip basic desserts for another cocktail. Outstanding service. Mains $4.50–$38.