The back terrace remains one of the hottest rendezvous for the fashionista crowd, a tented cabana with a long, white bar and sofa-lined nooks for VIPs (who head to the heated patio on chilly nights). Inside, the scene gets louder and more intensely social as weekend even­ings build. Many customers stick to either end of the short menu, snacking on exotic fruit plates or crisp soft-hearted chickpea fries with chipotle mayo. Tender little cocktail ribs finished with the sticky heat of maple, molasses and harissa, or a plate of warm flatbread points with three dips play second fiddle to well-made cocktails and a small, pricey list of wines. But new chef Jo Castrinos takes his food further. Miso-glazed black cod is as moist and sweet as ever, set amid Israeli couscous in a dark mushroom jus. Thick grilled beef tenderloin gets a more original treatment, spread with pungent cabrales blue cheese and topped with a large oyster mushroom that has left its personality in the deep-fryer. Dessert lovers will rave about the pistachio semifreddo accompanying a yummy flourless chocolate cake. Charming, worldly service fosters the illusion that this a private party. Mains $17–$26.