The ’60s Vegas lounge touches—shiny dark blue ceiling, semicircle banquettes, white metal chairs—feel alien to this bleak stretch of Dundas West and, worse, belie the fine, homespun talents of owner Isabel Carvalho (the sole figure in the open kitchen), who has been overfeeding diners here for 16 years. Though her menu features chicken and red meats (including a dramatic starter of fat chorizo engulfed in “firewater” flames on a crockery mini-grill), it’s hard to imagine ordering anything but her traditional seafood dishes. Four grill-seared sardines dissolve at a bite. Salada do mar (seafood salad) brings about 18 steamed mussels in an onion-tomato broth. The menu rightly suggests sharing the cataplana: there’s enough steamed shrimp, pork, sausage, clams and mussels to feed at least four, topped with two seven-inch tiger shrimp. Many mains are enough for two, most notably the acorda de marisco, in which mussels, clams and shrimp cook in a seafood broth with slices of bread, the waiter adding a raw egg at the table and whipping it in, producing a delightful comfort-food mush. Desserts are a short suit. Wine selection is also limited, but the Gazela vinho verde works nicely with all the shellfish. Mains $15.50–$34.50.