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RestaurantsPortuguese

Casa da Ramboia star [?]

  • 1282 Dundas St. W. (at Dovercourt Rd.) View on map »
  • 416-534-0407

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe ’60s Vegas lounge touches—shiny dark blue ceiling, semicircle banquettes, white metal chairs—feel alien to this bleak stretch of Dundas West and, worse, belie the fine, homespun talents of owner Isabel Carvalho (the sole figure in the open kitchen), who has been overfeeding diners here for 14 years. Though her menu features chicken and red meats, it’s hard to imagine ordering anything but her traditional seafood dishes. The menu rightly suggests sharing the cataplana, which could feed at least four: steamed shrimp, pork, sausage, clams and mussels, topped with two seven-inch crayfish. The acorda de marisco—in which mussels, clams and shrimp cook in a seafood broth with slices of bread, the waiter adding a raw egg at the table and whipping it in—is a delightful comfort-food mush. Desserts are a short suit. Wine selection is limi­ted. Mains $15.50–$28.

  • Closed Sunday
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