This candlelit room makes tourists and locals alike feel welcome. Expertly cooked seafood is the menu’s focus. Grilled sardines, flaky and not too strong, with a mouthful of tangy salsa verde anchor one-fifth of a superb appetizer platter. With it comes thickly sliced chouriço, its spiciness foiled by super-sweet caramelized onions; house-smoked salmon, firm and mildly smoky; soft, custardy fresh goat cheese on arugula; and an accordion-shaped grilled squid over grilled eggplant and sweet pineapple. Generous entrées allow the clean flavours of quality seafood to shine: four big tiger shrimp set in a pool of smoky-hot piri piri, or tender seafood risotto with just a hint of saffron. Chocoholics will delight in a mini-bombe of dark chocolate mousse is all luscious softness within. The 100-bottle wine list is largely Portuguese, with some New World picks and 12 choices by the glass. Capable, gently flirty service. Mains $17–$35.