Behind a discreet storefront on the downtown strip of tiny Fonthill, Zest’s small dining room, appointed with black leather seats, blond wood and earthy tones, bustles with well-to-do locals. Efficient and knowledgeable servers practice an exaggerated and somewhat faltering formality, while odd descriptions pepper the menu: duck confit “egg rolls,” hearts of romaine in a “bread sleeve,” “shrimp sticks.” The kitchen, which surprisingly does not take advantage of local Niagara ingredients, prepares Asian-influenced bistro fare cooked with a flair for flavour but an inconsistent hand. A caesar salad, deconstructed into whole romaine heart leaves and drizzled with garlicky vinaigrette, offers bold taste with coarsely grated reggiano, crispy pancetta rashers and chopped kalamata olives. Oddly, a 10-ounce Alberta beef tenderloin comes rare as ordered on one side but medium on the other. Still, it is a tender cut, served with a smoky baco noir reduction, grilled portobellos and a creamy dauphin-style potato with tangy cheddar. Warm pecan-bourbon pie has nice caramel but little booze. A mid-sized wine list shows many affordable selections, though not enough from Niagara. Mains $26–$36.