At an anonymous highway intersection, by an unassuming gravel parking lot, inside a modest modern bungalow, a pleasant surprise awaits. The welcome is lively and service is sophisticated. One of the twin dining areas shows more folksy, upholstered surfaces, while the other casts a pleasingly minimalist spell, its swish leather chairs juxtaposed with modern taupe walls. A wine list with upwards of 50 varieties includes Niagara and many bottles in the $25 to $45 range. Some of the starters need a tweak. Nori-wrapped, rice-stuffed salmon roll is too texture-dense and misses the much-needed wasabi and pickled ginger punch. Warm goat cheese roulade in a starchy, pan-fried exterior brings moist zucchini, red pepper and eggplant, plus a sweet jam of tomato and red pepper. Thick fillet of pan-roasted black cod with a salsa of tangy preserved lemon, olive, caper, tomato and herbs is unctuous; duck magret arrives pink and is well served by an accompanying lavender-juniper sauce and fig compote. Mains $26–$35.