This handsome Edwardian building belies the modern setting within: three small rooms done in chocolate brown and white with abstract paintings adding sunny splashes of colour. Chef-owner Erik Peacock caters to both conservative diners and those looking for adventure. Salmon tataki is as sharp as a samurai sword, with squares of the rare fish accoutred with salty soy jelly, zippy jalapeño mayo and crushed peas for added texture. Trout almandine is given a stylish makeover with a slow-roasted fillet set on airy, lemon-scented gnocchi, haricots verts, slivered almonds and a subtle beurre blanc. A duck duo unites rare petals of charred breast and succulent confit leg on a garlicky cannellini bean and sausage cassoulet; a hint of dark chocolate imparts a beguiling richness to the intense jus. Sticky toffee pudding is divine, but a bland vanilla risotto sounds better on paper. The wine list includes as many international bottles as it does local ones. Friendly, knowledgeable service. Mains $22–$35.