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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 182 Victoria St. N. View on map »
  • Kitchener
  • 519-744-0144
Editorial Review

It’s a strange sensation to look up and see Jesus peering down on you from an enormous stained glass window, but somehow, this 19th-century Apostolic church turned restaurant makes it all work. The atmosphere is moody and theatrical, with diners seated in the choir loft and on remnants of the chancel. While comfort and service are bang-on, the ambitious menu disappoints; several dishes are in need of divine intervention. Presentation is superb, but the execution lacks depth despite complex cooking techniques. Trio of seafood is gorgeous, but the lobster crêpe is too heavy on cream; coconut milk risotto boasts sweet shrimp but is overcooked; and sablefish is moist, but its sweet corn sauce is one-note. Desserts fare better: creamy tiramisù invites one to finish every morsel of mascarpone. Mains $24–$39.

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