Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
good
very good
excellent
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perfect
This comfortable taupe and teal room overlooking Twelve Mile Creek at Port Dalhousie exudes a welcoming warmth that’s further enhanced by a gracious and immensely knowledgeable staff. Indeed, when the waiter tells you your sauvignon blanc was made by his vintner father at a local winery, you know this place is in tune with regional producers. Chef Stephen Treadwell’s commitment to farm-to-table is evident from the verso of his menu, which lists the names, addresses and phone numbers of his Niagara and Ontario artisanal suppliers. On the table, this enthusiasm translates to such spectacular dishes as a sweet salad of roasted golden and red beets dressed with hazelnut vinaigrette and topped with a nest of lovage shoots. Mains include a perfectly seared fillet of Lake Huron whitefish served atop chunks of tender lobster, sautéed spinach and sliced new potatoes in a gorgeously light spinach velouté. Pork tenderloin is wrapped and roasted in pancetta, then sliced into three impossibly juicy medallions on a crispy bronze bed of pommes Anna. For dessert, a pound cake of cabernet grape must flour and fennel pollen, served with sour cream ice cream in a broth of poached rhubarb, proves an inspired combination. A stellar selection of Niagara wines in all price ranges. Prix fixe $55.
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