A bland exterior gives way to cherry red walls hung with work by local artists. Candlelight and well-spaced tables make for a casually romantic setting, popular with locals and tourists. House-cured charcuterie includes fennel-spiked salami and unctuous bison bresaola flanking a scoop of light-as-air, if a touch too salty, chicken liver mousse, served with a platter of homemade chutneys and pickles worthy of a county fair rosette. The special on this visit brings Three Little Pigs: moist house-smoked ham with a rich cream-laced savoy cabbage and apple sauté; full-flavoured shredded pork confit fried into a slightly dry croquette atop du Puy lentil ragoût, which, while bland, offers nice crunch; and a simple eggs Benny of Canadian bacon and poached quail’s egg atop a toasted brioche. The platter is a carnivore’s delight but could use salad greens for freshness and colour. The kitchen shows a more delicate hand with grilled salmon that’s creamily coral at the centre. Fluffy dark chocolate mousse cake alongside cassis sorbet needs a dollop of crème fraîche to temper its flavours. An extensive wine list proudly features only Niagara VQA offerings. Servers are young and enthusiastic. Mains $24–$28.