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Sisi on Main star½ star good
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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 27 Bruce St. S. View on map »
  • Thornbury
  • 519-599-7769
Editorial Review

Gas lanterns, exposed brick and rough wooden boards lend an Atlantic cottage feel, while a singer strumming ’60s folk favourites coddles the boomer crowd, here for tried-and-true classics with a touch of flair. Puréed roast parsnip and bartlett pear are kissed with a swirl of dark local maple syrup in a beautiful soup. Plump little Taj Mahal mussels blend with a rose-coloured mix of sweet red peppers and mangoes that tingle with creamed curry. Luxurious duck fat waits under crackling confit skin, though the meat itself is a touch dry, and its bed of warm red cabbage, apple, cranberry and walnuts lacks any discernible zing. Bull’s eye on the rib steak, a gargantuan hunk of three-week-aged beef, charred and moist inside. Mains $14–$38.

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