No-fuss country dining meets barnyard chic in this converted fish ’n’ chips shop, where chef Doug Porter makes art of local ingredients in his open kitchen. The menu is small, supplemented by specials that reflect seasonal, local ingredients. Red pepper simmers with Porter’s wild-harvested ginger, creating a crimson soup of cool Georgian Bay aromas threaded with subtle, tingling spice. Oyster, lion’s mane and shiitake mushrooms from a friend’s farm are lightly seared and set amid baby organic spinach, and pea and sunflower sprouts in a sesame vinaigrette. Grilled, bison sausages arrive as tender as filet, splayed atop organic jerusalem artichokes, yams, turnips, and celery and parsley root, pan-seared golden with buttery spaetzle; anise-spiced slaw accompanies. To finish, the four-berry crisp. Mains $16–$40.