Cosseted in the airy, sunset-lit dining room, it’s impossible not to surrender to the charms of chef Neil Baxter’s food. Though limited—the polished table d’hôte menu ($81.50) features about five each of appetizers, mains and desserts—Baxter’s offerings borrow from many cuisines while remaining firmly anchored in French tradition. Ocean trout tartare breezes gently across the palate, enlivened by lemon and refreshing notes of cucumber and green mango. It’s hard to quibble with such mains as juicy roasted leg and loin of rabbit paired with dense spaetzle and woodsy mushrooms in a mild mustard sauce, though the promised pistachio and pancetta filling is MIA. Saddle of lamb with punchy chorizo atop an al dente bean ragoût re-establishes the kitchen’s deft touch with umami flair. An exquisite glazed lemon tart is without peer. No à la carte.