With its fireplace and chandeliers, the soaring room is mighty imposing, but the view through the French windows steals the show—manicured lawns and vineyards stretching to the distant escarpment. Friendly service adds a human touch to Niagara’s most formal dining experience, and it’s lucky the chairs are so comfortable because the eight-course tasting menu requires the whole evening. After a stunning amuse of a raw oyster dressed with chardonnay jelly, the first course sets the tone of unalleviated richness: a sweet, heavy cheesecake made with foie gras, artichoke and icewine. Halibut crusted with sage and pecans is gorgeous paired with lobster knuckles, slivers of bacon and black truffle linguine in a rich cream sauce. The main event brings veal three ways: a flavourful tenderloin, a peppery sweetbread on a zucchini galette and a wee slab of belly meat. For dessert, a chai pot de crème precedes a brownie strewn with sea salt. Peller wines are paired with each course. Mains $30–$39.