Built around a gnarled, fairy tale–worthy tree, the glassed-in garden room offers the verdant beauty of al fresco dining but without the bees. It’s a perfect setting to enjoy the tightly focused fusion flavours conjured by Bryan Steele—an instructor at the Stratford Chefs School, and a chef who practises what he teaches. His kitchen’s razor-sharp technique and consistently flawless execution are rare, but a forewarning: the servings are tiny, the prices steep. Nonetheless, briny medallions of lobster and mussels are exquisite in a lemon grass curry sauce with a lick of chili heat, while the garnish of samphire (think seaside-grown parsley) is a rare treat. Moist, buttery sablefish is given the miso treatment with a supporting cast of warm cucumber noodles, toothsome seaweed and peppery shiso. Rhubarb is celebrated in a trio of delights: cheese strudel, a gelée terrine layered with sour cream, and a pink vodka shooter. The wine list gives equal billing to Ontario and France. Knowledgeable service. Prix fixe $59–$80.