The kitchen team has coalesced under executive chef Rob Fracchioni, and views from the window tables—the sleepy pond, the roaring dam that once powered this woollen mill—remain as seductive as ever. The elaborate wine list favours top-end bottles and doesn’t skimp on Canadian offerings. Though the menu may tilt somewhat toward red meat, there is unusual sophistication, along with a few quibbles. A sprinkle of bacon lardons adds just-right piquancy to lightly crisped, unctuous Quebec foie gras, and rich lobster sauce makes a savvy dabbing partner for halibut fillet. Veal tenderloin is rare beneath its truffle-scented casing. For dessert, the molten chocolate cake with Baileys is the best. Young servers keep the even­ing moving along. Mains $27–$39.