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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 12 Bridge St. View on map »
  • Thornbury
  • 519-599-7866
Editorial Review

Set in the stone shell of a mill on the tranquil Beaver River, the Mill Café remains an inviting local fixture. Yet it wasn’t until the arrival of chef Tim D’Souza in 2004 (by way of Oro and the Granite Club) that stellar meals became the norm. Apple and onion soup balances its namesakes’ sweetness with satisfyingly savoury Benedictine blue cheese crostini. Delicate, ruby citrus- and beet-cured chinook salmon rests atop blini, chive crème fraîche and cucumber salad. Striped bass and wild gulf shrimp repose on a mushroom broth. Mains $17–$38.

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