Chef Michael Sullivan’s decidedly short but mouth-watering menu and expert execution make this charming room one of Prince Edward County’s best restaurants. From a mostly seasonal carte of just eight appetizers and seven mains, one even­ing’s starter of skillet-fried blue crab cakes could hardly be improved, the two discs intense and clean flavoured, served with a julienne of crisp red beet and carrot. Slow-braised Ontario lamb shank is perfumed with just-sharp-enough gremolata; the meat itself, while properly cooked, fails to inspire. Sullivan’s panko-breaded yellow perch—a menu mainstay—is rightly popular. Flaky and golden, it arrives alongside steamed broccoli, roasted acorn squash, saffron-scented potatoes and a somewhat insipid rémoulade. Winner of a Wine Spectator award of excellence three years in a row, the wine list features many bottles under $50. Mains $21–$32.