With the stately country house hotel and its gardens as an elegant backdrop, dining on the lawn on a warm summer night is the stuff of romantic fantasy. The pursuit of ever more exalted international recognition—awards from Wine Spectator and VQA, as well as a five-diamond rating from AAA/CAA—keeps the expert staff on its toes and the kitchen’s attention tightly focused. Thoroughly modern culinary concerns (you can’t get more local or seasonal than the hotel’s fecund garden) are seamlessly integrated into a tasting menu that starts with a dainty amuse of gingered parsnip bavarois under a carrot consommé jelly with a stripe of thick basil coulis. Perfectly textured pig’s trotter stuffed with braised pork tail, jowl and shoulder is balanced by quinoa and wild mushrooms. Pastry chef Rob Howland’s desserts are highly inventive and detailed. Sommelier Sylvain Brissonet edits a wine list of impressive depth, strongest in French, Canadian and Californian stars. Mains $32–$45.