With windows on three sides of the dining room, one can watch the twilight gather over the terrace and pool until candles come into their own. Supremely attentive service from youthful professionals is a hallmark of the veteran resort’s elegantly European style. The kitchen alternates bistro and more formal nights. Lighter spa dishes are always available, but it would be a shame to skip chef Bernard Ibanez’s three-way treatment of foie gras: pan-fried with morsels of beetroot and a sweet poached fig; as a delicate terrine; and as a delectable set custard in a tiny martini glass. Grilled white tuna with spinach is the excuse for a devilishly good sauce diable with acidic zing and well-judged chili heat. A trinity of mini-burgers (lamb, beef with duck liver, duck with cèpes) isn’t the newest idea on earth, but textures and flavours are distinct and accompanying sweet-potato frites are irresistible. Dessert might feature chocolate used many ways: as a sorbet, a mousse, a cold soup topped with vanilla mascarpone cream, and a delectable free-standing soufflé. Top southern hemisphere labels broaden an award-winning wine list already deep in French and Canadian vintages. Six-course prix fixe (with choice) $69, seven courses $89.